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Surf Guide - Bocas Del Toro
Bocas Del Toro, Panama has become well known for it's surfing spots over the last few years. There are lots of waves spread all over the island chain - Isla Colon, Carenero, and Bastimentos all have waves and are a short boat ride from each other. Billed by surf travel agents as the Caribbean's version of Indonesia's Mentawai islands, there are defnitely similarities with the need for boats to get to the waves, but PLEASE don't expect Indonesian style surf perfection because you won't find it here, at least not consistently. That said, if you come seeking fun, consistent waves, warm water and don't mind surfing with a few others, you'll have a great trip here. There are a few different ways to do a surfing mission in Bocas Del Toro, I'll try and cover them for you....
Panama Surfing Guide
Surf can be found on both the Pacific and Caribbean coasts of Panama. So far I have only visited the Caribbean side and the info below is all about the surf destination of Bocas Del Toro. Once I have explored the surf spots on the Pacific side I will add another update.
The Waves
Bocas has a good mix when it comes to it's surf spots, with reefs, beach breaks, and a big wavespot thrown in for the chargers! I'll start with Isla Colon, the main island where Bocas Town and most of the accommodation is located.
Isla Colon -The surf spots start around 8km from the town, now 8km sounds quite close but it's not here! The road is treachorous and the puddles so deep only 4x4 vehicles can make it. Because of this the taxis charge alot, so the easiest way to get to all the following surf spots is by boat (water taxi). I'll list a boat prices guide at the end.
The first place worth surfing is called Paunch or Punch. It is a reef that breaks close to shore and offers 3 shifting peaks, both lefts and rights. If the swell is solid I found the lefts to be better, sometimes throwing thick, makeable barrels with good sections to carve as well. On smaller days keep an eye out for rights too, especially to the north of the break and on lower tides. Paunch catches alot of swell.
On the point opposite Pauch are 2 more spots, Outside and Inside Dumpers. Outsides is a short but hollow left that throws out heavy tubes with a steep, ledging takeoff. Insides is also a left that is hyped as a long, Indo style barreling wave. It does offer a fast hollow wall but to compare it to Indo's spots is a bit of a stretch. It is a pretty, glassy wave but the fact is it shuts down alot and I never saw anyone make more than a quick in and out tube there. Both Inside and Outside Dumpers need a bigger swell before they start to work.
A bit further past Dumpers is La Curva, a shallow and shifty reef that needs super clean conditions. The final break is Bluff Beach, possibly the least hyped of all Bocas surf spots but ironically it is the place that packs the most punch! It is a long beachbreak that drops quickly into deep water and is exposed to swell. Some people call it the $400 wave due to it's appetite for fibreglass! To surf here you need to know what your doing, if you do you can expect deep, dredging tubes. It is best after rains have washed out the creeks and created good sandbanks.
Back before Paunch there is actually a little wave you can sometimes surf, a sand/reef combo called Tiger Trails I think? It can be fun on it's day, maybe a good crowd dodge
.
Isla Carenero - Very close to Isla Colon, it has lots of surf options on it's eastside. First of all the waves peel off the island's northern point to form a fast, rippable left. It's sometimes very sectiony, but on a good day is a long wave with good tubes. Further along the line the waves break off a little hill to form a short little left.
The next spot is called Old Mans and it is an A-frame peak in the middle of the next bay. It is overlooked by the masses and can be a little soft, but it can actually be a lot of fun on a low tide. You just have to take off behind the peak, that way you can get some good turns in. The left is longer and more rippable.
Isla Bastimentos - This bigger island is a little further from Bocas town, costs more to get to, has less accommodation but lots of surfing potential. The northern tip has a big wave reef called Silverbacks. To surf it you'll need a gun, it's a serious wave, google it and you'll see what I mean! It also needs a lot of swell to break. Around the point Wizard Beach is a fun beach break, the place everyone goes when its small. Wizard is a long beach, it can get really good but is not usually hollow like Bluff. Further along, Playa Largo has good surf, possibly better than Wizard but thats all I know about it.
So where should I go?
Here is a rough guide to help you figure out where you want to surf in various swell sizes. It pays to know where you are going otherwise you are at the mercy of the boat drivers and their limited surfing knowledge. Swell sizes are based on magicseaweed.com predictions.
swell size
surfing recommendations
surfing recommendations< 4 ft
4 - 8 ft
8 - 12 ft
12 ft plus
note: based on my own observations, surfing daily from late Nov - March, I may or may not be full of it!
- wizard beach / largo
- paunch / carenero for fun, easy waves
- bluff may be hollow if sands OK
- wizard will be a good size
- paunch / carenero probably pumping
- dumpers breaking at a good size
- wizard / bluff probably closed out
- dumpers / silverbacks / and possibly
paunch & carenero for heavy, challenging waves!
Boats and Transport Guide
I have a love/hate relationship with the boats in Bocas. Its cool to pull up alongside pumping waves and jump into the mix, but in Bocas they cost alot, especially if you are a long-term traveller on a budget. Heres the lowdown on boats leaving from Bocas Town(BT), prices are per person:
- BT >> Carenero Point averages $3 each way. If you want to save money catch the $1 boat as far as the Pickled Parrot restaurant and walk 10mins along the beach and paddle out over the reef. The other option is to stay at a hotel on Carenero and not pay at all.
- BT >> Paunch/Dumpers/Bluff The boats here cost more so get a group together and cut a deal, $4 - 5 each way to Paunch is an average. You can also walk or ride a bike from town but its 1 - 1.5 hours and muddy.
- BT >> Wizard beach Its $5 each way to be dropped off in the water for a surf. If you want to save $, or take stuff and hang on the beach, take a boat to Bastimentos town and walk across the island. It takes about 20mins and the ride costs $2.50 each way. Keep a close eye on your stuff, thieves hide in the trees.
As you can see these boats add up to being a pain in the arse if your budget is tight! If your in that position I would sugest staying on carenero for some of your trip and walking to the point, then you could move out to La Coralina Hotel which is very close to Paunch, you can also walk to Dumpers, La Curva, and Bluff reasonably quickly. So lets talk accommodation....
Accommodation
There are so many places to stay in Bocas del Toro, I'm only focussing on places that suit surfers or have a surfing vibe.
Firstly, some budget places in Bocas Town for you surfers on an endless summer mission. Mondo Taitu and Hostel Heike are the backpackers places, roughly $8 per person a night for a dorm, includes lots of partying and noise as usual. If you want a bit more privacy and sleep try Hotel Hansie that has nice wooden double rooms with baclonies for $20-30ish ph +507 757-9085. Also, La Verandah has nice rooms, it is a Caribbean style home with a spacious verandah to hang out on and enjoy the breeze. Also has a communal kitchen, from $19. Away from town and out by Paunch you can stay at la Coralina right by the surf. A good idea if you want to cram a few sessions in each day and keep an eye on the waves for uncrowded windows of opportunity! It is on the hill, in a lush tropical garden, the restaurant has sweeping views of the reefbreaks at dumpers. Its only downside is how far away town and all it's restaurants/bars are. But if you just wanna surf hard and then laze in a hammock it's the best place to stay. The owner does run free rides into town for guests if you stay 3 days or more. Rooms start at $40 but if you are solo they cut you a deal at $30. There are also suites for those who want to relax in style.
If you want to stay on Carenero and actually be able to walk to surf spots, you could try Aqua Lounge Hostel for a budget / party experience, probably about $8 per person. For more comfortable accommodation Dona Mara is really nice, has a garden, restaurant, ping pong and stacks of surf mags, $65 includes breakfast. Tierra Verde is also a quality place and has surfing connections, rooms start at $65 with breakfast. If your coming with a crew you could hire a house, Casa Cocoloco is tranquil and really comfortable. It is on the non surf side of Carenero so you'll have to run through the jungle to surf the point, but you can also get boats right out front and Paunch is actually quite close to it.
Most places to stay on Bastimentos are a good walk from the waves but I will mention Red Frog Bungalows. Its the only place at Red Frog Beach, you'll probably score good surf without crowds as Scott the owner seems to be the man with the surf knowledge, judging by his photo file on magicseaweed.com . Its a better option for groups, if you have say 4 people its about $60 a night per person.
Food
When I do these surf guides I usually try and give details of healthy, organic places where you can really fuel up and get that energy you need for your next surf. Sadly, Bocas doesn't have so many of these places when compared to say, Puerto Escondido, Costa Rica, or Indonesia, but there are a few nice spots and some tasty local flavoured eateries.
Panaderia Dulceria Alemana is a bakery and cafe with excellent pastries, breads, cakes and expresso coffee. For $2.50 their grilled sandwiches are hard to beat. Across the street, Om cafe serves good quality indian food, they also offer breakfasts and the only vegie juices in town. On the main street, Chitre's and Don Chicho's both offer cheap tasty local meals like rice and beans, fried chicken, fish etc. A local lady runs Lili's which has a nice view of the water and the meals have fresh, healthy ingredients, also on the water but a little bit outside town Hotel Angela 's restaurant serves good seafood, especially the snapper. For all the coffee addicts, Starfish Cafe has a full coffee menu including organic coffees, hot chocolates, chais and brownies etc. The quality of your coffee will range from excellent to mediocre though depending on who is working! Lots of reading material and a nice view make it a relaxing place to be.
Other Stuff
Most things you need for surfing can be found in Bocas Town, Isla Colon. There are a couple of surf shops, Flow and Tropix. If you need wax, legropes, fins etc you will have no problems but there aren't many boards around. If you plan to stay a while you can eat pretty healthy if you stock up at Super Gourmet Deli and get fruit & vege from the local stalls in the smaller streets behind town. You can buy 19 litre refillable water bottles at Hawaii supermarket for $3.75. Keep your cutbacks fluid by taking yoga classes, only $1 on thursdays and sundays near the deli.
Overall, Bocas Del Toro offers plenty of fun surf, some beautiful beaches, and lots of partying. If you don't mind boating everywhere and are in Panama at the right time of year check it out. The best season is from late November through March and apparently July/August also has waves. It does get crowded in season but I found late november and early december to have good waves and hardly any crowds.
Paunch, Bocas Del Toro photo: Roland
Bluff Beach
Small Paunch
Wizard Beach
Outside Dumpers
View from La Coralina
La Coralina's Restaurant
Casa Cocoloco
Aqua Lounge Hostel
Starfish Cafe
photo: Roland
